Vietri sul Mare (Vietri) is a small enchanting town on the Amalfi coast of Italy. Known for ceramics, food, shopping, and beaches. The Amalfi coast IS absolutely one of the most visited destinations in Italy, it’s been Instagrammed and Tweeted and YouTubed A LOT! Positano, Capri, Sorrento, yup I know you’ve heard of them. However, Vietri sul Mare, I hadn’t heard that much about. Not until my sweet travel buddy Candy made it her temporary home this past year.
At the moment, the Amalfi Coast is busy, busy, busy after two years of COVID! I have booked so many tours here for 2022 and I will be visiting myself again for the second time this fall. It appears everyone wants to visit this Italian coast. Whether you begin in Naples or Salerno, this is a happening destination right now! It might be why I decided to start my Amalfi journey with you, beginning with my favorite. This destination definitely needs to be shared.
GROUP TRIP along the RHEIN!
Ceramics and Shopping
Depending on where you visit on the Amalfi coast, just about every town will claim they were the origin of Amalfi pottery. I am going to choose to believe it was Vietri. According to CNN, it is also the origins of ceramics in Campania and the beginning of the Amalfi coastline. While Vietri is not as flashy as some of the other coastal towns, it definitely has the heart.
There are so many ceramic stores along these ancient streets you couldn’t possibly visit them all in one day. We were welcomed by shop owners who seemed happy to see us but not in a pushy way and I observed they met locals with a “Ciao” and a smile.
There is a specific artistic design that is centuries old and made its way to the coast believed to be by the 16th century Etruscans. Although there is a constant debate among the towns of Amalfi about who actually threw the first clay, you can visit the Museo della Ceramica Vietrense for more info.
My first introduction to Vietrese pottery was through Romeo Vietri. I met Romeo through Candy as well. He is very active on FaceBook and showcases different pieces daily. If ceramics are your jam like they are mine and you have a unique taste for pottery then you’re going to love this, so be sure to follow it!
The entire town of Vietri is surrounded by tile and tile-lined shops. We made our way through the park and overlook the Ceramica Artistica Solimene Vincenzo this shop and museum is a highlight and showpiece for the town.
Travel Plan with someone who has so much experience!
Cool digs to chill in Vietri
Candy knew she would be in Italy for a bit longer than a vacation because she was MOVING there! Talk about being super jealous. She moved from St.Croix, USVI to Italy. I know I love her too. I visited her twice in St. Croix over COVID since I could! You can see more of those adventures on my YouTube St.Croix playlist!
Italians are some of the friendliest Europeans and Romeo had connected her with Senatore. Senatore is amazing and has a Airbnb – rental in Vietri. The veranda of Casa Nives is perfect for catching sunsets along the coast. Peaceful and quiet with an occasional melody from the nearby church bells or a scooter, both delightfully Italian.
This spacious two-bedroom, two-bath, full kitchen, washer, wrap-around deck oasis is perfect for a short or long-term stay in Amalfi. Ideal for both families and groups with children as the space is plentiful. Pets are also welcome. Senatore also helps you find local transportation or if you are looking to travel further away. He is super helpful and speaks English.
Romeo also has another place if you are looking for solitude and it’s only 3km from Vietri in the medieval town of Cava de’ Terreni. You can find more information on their Facebook page too. Here is the Airbnb listing for this four-bedroom apartment that is great for larger groups and sleeps up to ten. Outside terrace, full kitchen and parking available too. Excellent for a longer stay.
How to get around
Candy did have her car so getting around wasn’t too, too difficult. However, the Amalfi coast is not one of those easy destinations to traipse around. She was already used to living there for a bit when I came this spring, so she was like a local, kind of. Also, I will say, once you get the hang of public transportation, it is not that hard to get around using the bus. It just takes time.
One day, Candy and I drove to Pompeii and it was a nice easy drive, mostly highway with one toll booth. Easy, peasy.
You can also call a taxi. Thanks to Senatore, Candy and I took a taxi from the apartment to the Travelmar Traghetti Salerno for the ferry service to Positano. It was about €20. Also, there is a bus stop right outside of the villa that can take you to the town of Vietri sul Mare and then you can actually travel up and down the coast.
Taking the Ferry
Taking the ferry is wonderfully super simple, fun, and also gorgeous. Grab your camera. Additionally, it was about €15 each way, with rolling cart luggage was an additional €7. So enjoy your time on the boat. You can take the ferry from Positano or Amalfi to Salerno or vice versa.
We went during the height of COVID-Omicron so there were mostly masked travelers. The mask mandate and testing has been dropped now in the summer of ’22. So happy traveling.
TRAVEL TIP! If crowds bother you, maybe skip the early, early boat. We took an early boat on Saturday morning and it was very busy. I find Ferry Hopper to be the best website for ticket information and schedules. Most ports sell same-day tickets, so no need for reservations.
Candy and I loved the ferry! What a way to see the coast!
Chill and Relax
Vietri sul Mare is such a charming town but also has one of the most beautiful Amalfi beaches. I am so sad we missed it on my last visit. However, I will definitely be visiting again. Spiaggia della Crestarella is fantastic with hardly the crowds of the nearby beaches. According to Beachsearcher.com it is rated #16 out of 248 beaches in Amalfi. Reviewers did say it was €10 for the lido but I think that is worth it for fewer crowds and space. I’m so bummed we missed it!
One of the other ways I love to relax is hiking. I know for some of you out there, this really isn’t relaxing, but I love it. Whether it is hiking the Dolomites or the Zugspitze or the Appalachians of Alabama, I am one hiking girl. One of the most famous hikes along the Amalfi coast is The Pathway of the Gods, I will be doing that trail this fall with my friend Lisa. Vietri sul Mare also has hiking trails as well.
If you are looking for hikes in the area, you might want to check out Trekking Amalfi Coast and meet up with Luigi Abate. He tells me the Lattari Mountains or “Alta Via Monti Lattari” or the “Path 300” 84km long that finishes to Punta Campanella off Capri island. He says it is some of the most beautiful trails along the coast. I am so ready to head to the mountains and sea for a hike in Campania. Andiamo!
As we were discovering the towns along the coast, I have to say “Vietri sul Mare” was probably my favorite. If you are planning an Amalfi adventure let me know. I would love to help you plan an itinerary. Here’s a travel profile questionnaire to get you started.